The Knowledge Library · 7 min read

Blackout Drapery Guide

True blackout is an assembly, not a lining. What separates a room that reads dark at noon from a room that merely dims.

Most drapery sold as 'blackout' meets none of the conditions required to actually darken a room. A three-pass blackout lining stops light through the body of the panel and does nothing at the top, sides, or bottom — which is where 90% of light leak in a 'blackout' room actually occurs.

True blackout is an assembly. It requires a sealed header — a drywall pocket or fabric-wrapped cornice — so light cannot spill over the top of the panel. It requires side channels or generous wand returns to the wall so light cannot leak at the edges. It requires a floor-puddled or sill-sealed bottom so light cannot pass under the hem.

Layered solutions are the most architecturally honest approach. We routinely layer a sheer or linen face panel in front of a three-pass blackout panel on a stacked track system. The room reads soft by day and fully dark by night, and the blackout layer is invisible when not in use.

We specify true blackout for primary suites, nurseries, media rooms, and any room that must read as dark at noon. We do not specify it where it is not warranted — a 'blackout-ready' room with no blackout discipline is the most common mistake in this category.

Written by Olga Rechdouni, ASID · House of Drapery
Related References

Further reading from the studio archive — see the case studies Beverly Hills Estate Window Treatments, and Reseda Great Room Drapery. For the underlying specification, see Custom Blackout Drapery in Los Angeles, Custom Motorized Drapery in Los Angeles, and Custom Ripple Fold Drapery in Los Angeles. For the broader practice in this area, see custom drapery in Beverly Hills, custom drapery in Bel Air, and custom drapery in Brentwood.

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